Last spring, as shortages of tencha and matcha began to intensify—especially in Yame and Uji—we started looking beyond the regions most commonly associated with matcha production. The idea was simple: explore areas that were less familiar overseas, where there might still be available stock and the potential to support meaningful volume. Kagoshima and Shizuoka came to mind, but with their established export channels to the United States, they proved less viable. Instead, we turned our attention to the broader definition of Uji matcha itself, which can be produced using tencha from Kyoto, Nara, Mie, and Shiga. Our theory was that there might be producers in these regions choosing to sell independently rather than supplying Kyoto-based blenders.
We began sourcing samples from producers in Mie, Shimane, Shiga, and Nara—eventually tasting close to forty or fifty different teas. Most fell short for one reason or another. Producing high-quality matcha is exceptionally difficult, particularly at a small scale, so it wasn’t surprising to see shortages emerge as global interest in matcha continued to grow. There’s no easy way to quickly increase supply.
One sample, however, immediately stood apart. From the moment we opened it, the color and aroma signaled something special. The powder carried a toasted, nutty fragrance our customers tend to love, and the texture was notably smooth. That tea came from Maruyasu, and it prompted us to reach out and plan a visit that summer to taste more deeply and meet the producer behind it.
Maeno-san, though relatively young, is already a level 9 chashi and sources primarily from Shiga’s historic tea-growing areas of Asamiya and Tsuchiyama. Having trained in Kyushu, his approach to matcha leans distinctly nuttier than the traditional Kyoto style, while still maintaining refinement. He also works with tencha from Kyoto and Nara, though all of the teas we selected are made exclusively from Shiga-grown tencha. Matcha from Shiga is still a new idea—historically, nearly everything was sold through Kyoto—and only a handful of producers are building a distinct identity around the region.
Maeno-san oversees every part of his operation, from managing his farms and sourcing raw tea to running the factory, café, and website. During our visit, we tasted through multiple tencha lots and matcha blends together, adjusting and refining them to align with what our customers gravitate toward. His openness and independence, unbound by Kyoto convention, make him an ideal partner as he helps define a new expression of Shiga matcha.
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